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  1. I'll have a reef tank someday. I really don't want to set one up until I buy a house though, I watched someone try to move their reef tank and it was a real bitch. It took forever and they lost a lot of stock. I just don't have the money to setup a badass reef tank and I have zero desire to try and move one. For now I'm saving money and slowly reading up on the subject.
  2. sick oscar

    Sounds like pop-eye although I haven't heard loss of appetite as a pop-eye symptom so that could be another problem altogether. Pop eye is almost always caused by poor water quality. You should immediately have your water tested for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. If you do not have the appropriate test kits for this, almost all petstores (including the big chains ones like Petsmart and Petco) will do this for you. The kits are cheap though so if you plan to keep fish, its a good idea to get some of your own. The strip kind are pretty sucky, get the kind with the drops. Assuming your Oscar is in an appropriately sized tank (55-75g for single fish) the first thing to do would be a large water change. Something in the area of 50%-60% to ensure the water is clean. Poor water quality causes most problems and prevents problems from healing. There are many products on the market for popeye, something like Jungle Fungus Clear or a similar product should be used. Follow their instructions, usually it requires a 50% water change every three days before a redose. You might want to also add a little aquarium salt to the water, a tablespoon per 5g will probably help the fish. While using these types of medicines, your biological filter will probably die off. Your tank might start to cycle again, possibly before the fish recovers. If this happens, you will need to step up the water changes to keep the ammonia at 0 until the fish heals.
  3. Hybrids!!

    I can't believe you would compare the suffering of millions of people at the hands of a madman to your hybrids. Please, shut up until you know what you are talking about. Would hybrids make the marketplace for wild species better? Not really, they would just leak out and polute the gene pool. Many of these species are at great risk in their natural habitat so if we ruin what we have in captivity, we might lose these species all together.
  4. Water Changes

    A species of fish....
  5. Water Changes

    A 29g with a JD and two Convicts is pretty overstocked. An 8" fish is a bit much to have cramed in that size tank. And how do you have a reef tank with Cichlids? The only thing I could possibly think of is that you keep Etroplus maculatus but even that seems really far fetched.
  6. telling the sex

    What fish is it?
  7. stocking 20 gal.

    Theres such a wide selection of Cichlids (especially when you take into account all the hybrids out there) that it would be really hard to say if your new fish are compatable with your old ones without more information. Generally, with Mbuna you want to stick with more Mbuna since they don't mix well with most other fish for a variety of reasons. But, as you probably already know, your tank is very undersized. Your fish will be maturing anyday now and thats when the real aggression will start. Mbuna are deceivingly peaceful when young but soon they will start to stake out their territories and breed and a 20g doesn't have enough room for 3 Mbuna much less 6+. The name that started with a Ch...might it have been Cichlasoma or Chalinochromis? Those are the only two I can think of offhand that are Cichlids. For the white fish, its hard to give any information. There are many naturally white Cichlids but yours sounds like an albino. There are several albino Cichlids commonly available, do you have a picture or any other information about it?
  8. Cichlid compatibility chart

    I've never kept Red Devils but I've heard they are nasty. What you can keep with it depends entirely on your individual fish's personality and the size of the tank. You can try things like rearranging the tank to curb his aggression (it actually works better with fish who are territoral than just plain out aggressive) but with fish that are just naturally mean theres sometimes not much you can do.
  9. If I was keeping GTs, I would probably use Hikari Cichlid pellets as my staple. Hikari foods rock and they are easy to find. I had a packet of the Cichlid Gold and its a nice omnivore mix and it comes in different sizes which is nice. I don't keep a lot of frozen foods. I mostly feed frozen stuff to my Bettas and you have to thaw out the entire cube (which even several Bettas can't eat) and they tend to be really expensive. The only one I really have experience with is Hikari frozen Krill and everything I fed it to went mad over it. Freeze dried foods I use a lot. Bloodworms are good for smaller fish, your fish at 3" would probably still do good on them. Fish love them but they're small enough that larger fish don't always recognize them. My larger Goldfish take awhile to find them while the Bettas "hunt" them as they're floating around. Someone gave me a bottle of fd Plankton and I use it on the larger fish, some of my smaller guys can't get it into their mouth too well. The Goldfish love it though. I haven't used fd Shrimp but thats usually a staple food for larger Cichlids, since it provides a lot of roughage to their diet. I have fd Tubifex worms as well and I don't care for them. They're pressed into those little cubes and I have to soak them and pull them apart a little bit before any of the fish will eat them. Even then the fish don't seem crazy about them. Plus when the cube breaks up you're stuck with a bunch of tiny ass worms floating around your tank and it makes a mess if nothing is eatting them. Really, most Cichlids will eat anything (including Cories) even if they aren't supposed to. I always had problems getting algae discs to my Pleco because my Mbuna would steal them. As long as you stick to a few high quality staple foods you should be alright. Being omnivores, you probably want to include some veggies. I don't know how well GTs take to veggies but every fish I have ever kept (from herbivore Platies to carnivore Bettas) loves peas. I don't know why but nothing makes them happier than throwing in some lightly cooked de-shelled peas. It creates a little riot as they all fight over them. I buy those giant frozen bags and pop some in the microwave for a few seconds, pop them out of their shells, and they're ready to go. They keep their digestive systems clean too, they're used as a remedy for swimbladder problems and since I've started feeding them I've never had any problems. A lot of people use Zuchini (or however the hell you spell it) and I drop some in when its in the house but usually I am lazy and just feed peas which the fish like better anyways. Sometimes I feed other things, lightly boiled greens, seaweed, etc but mostly I stick to the peas.
  10. Mbuna go great with....well, Mbuna. If you have something else, like Peacocks, you might be able to combine with with some of the Tang rock dwellers also. Without knowing which species of Lake Malawi Cichlids you have, it would be heard to make a specific suggestion. Synodontis catfish, although pretty rare and pricey, make good tankmates for most African cichlids too. S. petricola is my personal favorite since it stays smaller than most, is from one of the Rift Lakes, and is more active durring the day but S. angelicus is quite beautiful and adjusts easily to Rift Lake setups. Plecos can often do well in Rift Lake setups too but it depends. They don't have many problems adjusting to the water but some of the more aggressive Cichlids will eat their eyes out (which the Plecos surprisingly will do alright without) or eat the entire fish so its kind of a gamble. Are your Convicts a pair? If so it really limits your options. You could do with a Pleco, one of the small but sturdy species like a Bristlenose would be best. Sometimes you can get away with a small school of active mid to top level fish like Tiger Barbs.
  11. Oh, and to add, Yellow Labs are yellow from birth. The color brightens as they age but they come out of the mouth yellow looking like little mini Labs. Are you absolutely sure you have a Kenyi? I think its something else.
  12. If there is no member of the opposite sex of their own species in the tank, nearly all mbuna and many other fish will try to mate with whatever other compatable (and sometimes incompatable) species is in the tank. They will continue to breed until you seperate them or introduce more fish.
  13. Water Changes

    Agreed, I'm not sure what "healthy" water encompasses but that sounds like a pretty frightening schedule to me. I don't have any saltwater tanks but I do overstock my tanks and often do extra changes to account for it. I have an overstocked 10g with four Mollies and fry and I do 50% bi-weekly changes to keep up with it.
  14. Algae Eater Help

    Anytime you add a new fish to an existing mbuna setup you're going to have problems. Try adding one at night after you turn off the lights. Rearranging the rockwork while you add one might also help. Getting a larger Pleco might help but large Plecos usually don't eat algae. Most common Plecos lose interest in algae as they grow and will just want to eat your Cichlid's pellets and the occasional algae wafer or veggie. Even if you wake all the extra measures available, sometimes Cichlids just won't accept a Pleco in the tank. You can always get yourself an algae scraper. Most mbuna will actually follow the scraper around and eat the algae while it floats around after you scrape it off.
  15. rusty fins

    Not sure about the coloration. Rubbing is usually a sign of poor water quality (either toxins in the water or water with very different parameters than the fish needs...like a really low pH for Rift Lake Cichlids) or an external parasite (like Ich) so I would really watch the tank. With your stocking level, you should keep an eye on your ammonia/nitrite/nitrate readings to make sure everything is in check.